Saturday, March 21, 2009

The Core of Discovery



Oh,the stories my feet would tell if they could talk
And speak beyond the ache of discovery
If the tingling experiences translated past the ankle
And, too, the stories my eyes would tell
Verses recited by a tired squint or a sparkle of wonderment
If only language ran through my veins
Pouring forth from every nerve-ending
Proclaiming the subtleties, the wearying menagerie of everyday wonders
But blood runs thicker than words
Constraining them to just the lips and fingers
Two senses monopolizing an experience of the entire body in a lop-sided representative democracy
For fingers tread only on the pages and lips are not meant to walk the earth
But mearly kiss the air, unable to hear the untold stories in my footsteps.


So here it is: an actual blog posting. Only 60 days into my travels. And what a full 60 days they have been. Two months that could fill a lifetime...certainly too long for any blog post.
But that's not what this post is about. Today is about today. Today is about the core of discovery and the magic that a little wandering can bring...

GRASS SKIRTS AND GRASSROOTS

I started the day sick and in bed. Oh, how I struggled against the alarm clock and the knowledge that I really must get up. Places to go--adventures to be had whether I welcomed them or not. By 10 I was off to Onehunga, a lower-class suburb of mainly Pacific Island minorities. I had decided to write my first article for my journalism class on the release of the book "In Search of the Friendly Islands". It is a book written for Tongans by a Tongan and its message is an attempt to brush away the denial customary to that island nation...the denial that nothing bad ever happens in Tonga and there is no need for change. The author, Kalafi Moala, is a renowned Journalist and publisher who has spent more than his fare share of time either behind bars or banned from his home country due to his courageous attempts to shake the tyrannous status quo.

The release was a learning experience all in itself. After a 45 minute bus ride, I found myself in the Onehunga community center surrounded by a small group of people from all over the world...half of them dressed in traditional island garb. The invocation was in Tongan, followed by a hymn in Tongan, and welcoming phrases in numerous languages. The message of the release speeches were ones of fondness for Kalafi and a hope that his book would be successful and would teach its readers about Tonga and about the change that is needed there.

Sniffling and overcoming my timidity, I gathered my interviews and compiled enough information for what has the potential to be a very interesting story. But the adventure had only just begun. With the weight of that off my shoulders and a beautiful afternoon ahead of me, I decided to walk back to the apartments instead of taking the 45 minute bus ride back.

WHEREVER YOUR FEET TAKE YOU

Now, I will be the first to admit that I short-changed Auckland. When I first arrived here I was acutely disappointed. To me, it was just another city. And those sentiments were seconded again and again as I traveled through New Zealand and spoke to native kiwis. Auckland is not beloved.



But now I come to the city's defense. I have been charmed and wooed.

Auckland is just another city, but, like every city it will show you great wonders if only given the chance. I think too many people come to Auckland and just dismiss it without letting its secrets unfold. Today, I said: Show me what you've got.

I probably should have considered the distance I would be travelling before I turned down a 45 minute bus ride for a walk. But that's the beauty of being here, I suppose. What else did I have to do other than walk for as long as the day would allow?

From the Onehunga community center I could see the obelisk of One Tree Hill sticking up above everything. Here, I apologize for not having pictures; I forgot my camera and would have missed the bus if I'd gone back in get it. However, I will do my best to find sufficient stock photos. Anyway, the silver obelisk towered over the town from atop it's lush volcanic hilltop, shining in the sun like a beacon. How could I resist? Especially on such a beautiful day. So, without further ado, I started in that direction.



It was about an hour before I arrived at One Tree Hill, walking through neighborhoods devoid of people but full of chirping cicadas. Walking through the domain around One Tree Hill I could only think of one thing...this must have been what Auckland was like before all the buildings. Rolling volcanic hills, grazing sheep and cows, little wooded alcoves, all culminating in a steep climb to the peak from which can be seen the entire city of Auckland. One Tree Hill is a commemoration of the Maori people and their sacrifice. Its background is fascinating, and more can be read here. It is truly an amazing place...an expansive swath of pastoral beauty that somehow manages to hide smack dab in the middle of the city.

I soaked up the sun and the sights on the top of One Tree Hill and then headed back down...in the general direction of downtown.

One of the most amazing things about Auckland is the incredible number of parks (or domains) that exist there. One can hardly walk ten minutes without discovering a new park, usually filled on Saturdays with white-clad cricket-players. I must have seen eight different parks on this one walk and, although I stopped on numerous occasions to watch the cricket games, I could not make heads nor tails of it.

Four hours I walked the streets of Auckland, making my way towards what I knew was the general direction of where I needed to go. I was waylaid at one point by a natural foods store that yielded all sorts of delectable goodies and I couldn't help but walk away with a slice of vegan chocolate cake. Walking along the streets of New Zealand's largest city eating chocolate cake is no bad way to spend an afternoon.

I saw a race-course for harness racing, a brewery the size of Paramount studios, and a pizza place called Hell...all of which I made note to visit again later. The pizza place not only named its pizzas after the seven deadly sins, but had a vegan one named 'Sinister'. Quite entertaining.

I also found myself in Newmarket, Auckland's answer to every other city's swankified retail mecca. There were fancy stores I recognized and fancy stores I didn't, all attracting a clientele of 20-something girls and gay men...the same in every city. And yet, even Newmarket couldn't help but have it's own little charm. Nestled between the department stores, there was still some character.

It was a long long walk before I started seeing things I recognized and, despite a nagging cold and aching legs, I couldn't help but visit one last park...the Auckland Domain. There I sat and tried one last time (for the day) to understand cricket. No luck. Walking the final stretch through the park to the edge of campus I was inspired to write the above poem. It was the only way I could even begin to describe what a full-body sensual experience it is just to wander with no particular goal except just to see whatever there is to see. Maybe I will be reincarnated as a sponge...

So, it's no grand adventure. There was no risk of life (except for being a pedestrian), there were no great experiences; it was just me walking through Auckland for four hours and letting it show me whatever it wanted to. I only wish that more people would just take to the sidewalks and get to know their cities. Down time? Get out and walk. You never know where your feet will take you.



stock photos provided by flickr

1 comment:

  1. Oh Kacey - That was beautiful! You remind me of when I first got to San Sebastián and saw that it was indeed a thriving city and not a laid-back town with dirt roads and horse-drawn carriages, nor with old men taking their dilapidated fishing boats out to bring in the morning's haul. Given the chance it's incredible how places begin to stand out in their own unique ways. Your words, pictures, and experiences paint such a wonderful picture - thank you for sharing!

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